Monday, November 26, 2007

This past weekend a couple of friends and I took a trip to Nico (Nikko?). The name means sunlight, which is cool, I guess. This was one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. I'll detail the trip in words later mostly because I have to go to class now, but enjoy this sequential photo series from the first two days in the mean time.






























Monday, November 19, 2007

I got lost yesterday, for like 3 hours. The river forks, and I guess I didn't notice, like a dumbass. At one point, I actually had walked in a giant circle for an hour. I was in a sketchy part of town, too.

Alright, uh, who wants pictures?



This is pretty much what Shinjuku looks like.



My friends actually tried to hit on these girls.




God, he looks like a giant furry pedophile.



We found a kitty!



And a sex shop. Where they sell Gundam condoms!



Condoms are on earth.



ITS A CONDOM!!!!!!



Harajuku.



There are a lot of these, so just tell me when to stop. Now? Ok.



I think they were in love or something.



These people might also have been in love.



Maybe there was just love in the air. What do you think, Josh?



The Statue of Liberty? A-hubba-whaaaaaa?



The koreans and some white chick. Who let her into the picture?

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Today I went to the 江戸東京博物館。 Or, the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Excuse my gratuitous use of Kanji.

I was supposed to go with the rest of my class after our culture class, but when I woke up at 8:30, I turned of my alarm and just went back to sleep. The class started at 9, and my commute is about an hour, so it just wasn't worth it. I slept until noon, took a shower, and decided to go to the museum by myself.

It took me almost an hour and a half to get there, but I actually enjoyed the trip itself. I had to use train lines I'd never taken before, which is sort of exciting, and because I was alone and not meeting anyone there, I felt very relaxed. I'd get there when I got there. I read some Becket and listened to the Super Furry Animals on the train.

When I got to Ueno, the neighborhood struck me as pretty cool and laid back. There wasn't a whole lot going on besides the museum, but it was nice, sort of like the immediate area around the field museum in Chicago. The museum was right outside the exit to the station. Upon navigating my way to the ticket counter, I discovered that the museum was hosting a special exhibition on Natsume Soseki, an incredibly famous Japanese author (a bit of exposition for all of you who are not Jason). I dropped down the extra 700 yen in order to get a ticket for the permanent exhibit along with the Soseki exhibit. Fact: Tenji is the Japanese for exhibit(n.).

At first, the exhibit was disappointing. Not only were the initial articles on display inane (a certificate of acceptance to some school no one's heard of) and sort of pointless (a bunch of novels in English that he had purchased) but there was an incredibly slow moving line snaking across the rows of display cases, which ran counter to my desire to wander through the museum at my own discretion. However, despite the linear exhibit, I found myself becoming entranced by Soseki's life story, as well as the original manuscripts of his works. They were all written on common genkoyoshi and often he would supply the hiragana for the kanji or scribble over them in pencil when he decided to make edits. For some reason, the visceral and direct confrontation with Soseki's writing engaged me and lead me to be more interested in the exhibit. I even caught myself saying in my head, "This is awesome."

A couple of highlights; 1. Original manuscript for "I am a cat." 2. Someone had done 8 pencil drawings of Soseki doing random things like going to the onsen or writing on his porch, and each one depicted him with googly eyes and a comically bushy mustache (which he had in real life). 3. One of the blurbs about Soseki's life. In his later years, from age 40 to 49, Soseki had apperently joined what I understand to be some kind of writers colony. The information placard had this to say (paraphrasing): Soseki would go on to write many of his works during this period. However, despite his constant writing, Soseki enjoyed many pleasures and engaged in a full life. We would talk and take walks with many of his deciples, play with his children, and even eat his favorite food, icecream." It seemed to me that they were trying to say, "and from then on, Soseki's life was all sunshine, lollipops and rainbows." 4. Soseki's death mask mold. 5. One of his notebooks they had on display was titled "貸した本" or books he had lent out. It was just that, a listings of all the books he had lent, to whom he had lent them, and when. It felt like something I should do, as almost all of my friends here have borrowed books from me.

After the exhibition, I found myself in the gift shop. "Oh boy," I thought, "I bet I can find something to waste money on here." However, during the exhibit I realized that, despite it being possibly his most famous work, I had never read "I am a cat." To my incommunicable joy, they had a copy there in english with Japanese notes in the back. So not only can I read the novel, but also pick up a couple Japanese phrases along the way. Awesome.

The permanant exhibit was pretty standard fare. Going along with it's namesake, it was all about Tokyo and Edo. The coolest part about it was the scale reconstructions of certain sectors of Edo and the precise detail of the houses and people, all the way to the design on their kimonos. They had binoculars for use to view the intricacies of the models. I found myself drawn to a certain part of the peasant's quarter diorama; three guys standing around in a back alley regarding a tree. My first thought was, "What are these dumbasses doing?" I thought maybe there was a cat in the tree or something, but upon closer inspection they were just standing in a secluded area doing nothing. I suddenly felt a deep kinship to these men. I realized that, if I was living in Tokyo at that time, that's probably what I would be doing, wandering around away from the crowds with my two buddies cooking up some ridiculous scheme. To be honest, I thought of Chris and Seth first, but I also realized that in Madison that's all we do, so any and all of my friends there could fit the bill just as easily. That's not to say that it couldn't be any of my other Chicago friends, either. Consciously or unconsciously, I seem to surround myself with those kinds of people.

A specific display that I found to be hilarious although I realize it is unintentionally so, were the selected prints of a ukiyo-e series called "Famous places in Edo compared with One Hundred Beauties." It was essentially a picture of some supposedly hot chick (all women in ukiyo look the same to me) with a small rendering of an Edo landmark shoved in the corner of the print. I found this to be hilarious, especially when I read that while the series is attributed to one guy, his assistant is the one who did the pictures of the places, while the master crafted the scenes of the ladies. The whole thing seems like a huge jab at how serious people took the scenery of capital of Japan and what usually prompted people to by ukiyo-e prints.

Upon leaving the permanent exhibition, I was lead to a gigantic escalator that turned into a moving walkway, and then back into an escalator, descended down a large tube, and then emptied into a courtyard outside. The courtyard was grand and I felt really good suddenly, a feeling of pleasure at having been in a museum and also feeling of awe towards the architecture of the museum from the vantage point of the courtyard. I felt sated on an existential level, like this was an excursion that I needed to have taken, and in completing it, satisfied something in myself.

Later, I met up with my friends in Shibuya and we stumbled around a bit. We found a great location for food and drink, but I was feeling a little let down. The place had a great atmosphere, a great smell, the food and drinks were cheaper than I'd ever seen, better tasting then I'd ever tasted, with a nice soundtrack and a great, memorable name, but it was still the same old drag; a place to get drunk and watch my friends try to pick up girls with whom they cannot have a coherent conversation.

I read "I am a cat" during the train home.




Sunday, November 11, 2007

I felt like a real person for the first time today.

I started reading The Wild Sheep Chase and then I took a shower and got dressed. I went out into town to a sushi restaurant and ordered my sushi two plates at a time. When I was finished eating, I sat there pondering the color of maguro while sipping tea. The guy sitting next to me ordered a giant bottle of beer even before taking off his coat. He dipped his chopsticks into the head of his beer before picking up his sushi. I had been wondering if the reading was chutoro or nakatoro, and he confirmed that it is chutoro. I thanked the chef for the meal, paid (1,224 yen), and left.

And that's the story.

Thursday, November 8, 2007

Not to start another blog post with sorry, but.. ok I won't. I'll tell a story first.

Once, on the train with my friends, an elderly gentleman and a couple of elderly women came onto the train and sat down next to us. At first, it seemed they were perturbed, perhaps, wary of our presence. However, things began to happen, as they often do. One of my friends began loudly studying Japanese vocabulary word note cards, and soon the elderly gentlemen was peering at the note cards thoughtfully, slowly becoming invested, until he was proactively correcting and affirming my friends Japanese. At the same time, I had somehow come into possession of a bag of candy. Upon witnessing the way in which the gentleman reacted to a foreigner, I decided to offer the two ladies sitting next me a piece of that candy. The first lady politely refused my numerous “dozo’s,” but from what I had heard at that point in regards to Japanese culture, people will often refuse something the first or second time it is offered, until finally submitting. The way this interaction played out is as follows: the first woman, to be immediate left, refused, refused again, and then complained of a stomach ache. At this point, I thought it best to discontinue my offering; if she had a stomache, I couldn’t very well ask to her have some candy. I then extended my arm out with the bag of candy to the second woman, who, instead of resisting, immediately indulged, as if to say, “Don’t mind if I do,” and the first woman, after seeing her friend take and acquisitively consume the candy, reached into the bag and took a piece of candy, as if to say, “Well, if she’s doing it.” To be honest, I’m not really sure as to the significance of this story, but it feels poignant.

So, I feel like a huge jerk because I was all like, "whine, no one reads my blog, wah wah wah, I want comments, a doo hoo hoo hoo" (that's me crying because I'm a loser), but really its my own fucking fault because somehow I turned on the "you must moderate comments" feature, and since I didn't have the internet until now, I didn't even fucking realize it. So, all those beautiful, nicely-phrased, insightful, and altogether loving comments are there for all the world to see.

So, once again, I feel like I should respond to them, nay, I have a desire to respond to them, and if there's anything I've learned, it's to give into my hedonistic urges.

So, lets get things rolling.

Chris - SONIC THE MOTHER FUCKING HEDGEHOG! I fucking knew it. I was all in the dark about it, until I went online for a sec, and I was like OH SHIT!! And then all the shonen jumps I've been getting have ads for brawl and sonic's all over those pages and he's fucking kicking Mario in his FUCKING face. Also, his moves look kick ass, and really simple, which is beautifully old school in terms of sonic. I feel really weird that I haven't talked to you in a long time, but I have skype again now, so, shall we?

Jason - What you think my haiku says is a million times better than what it actually says, so I'm just going to leave it at that. I'm starting to figure out the whole public and private thing. It's called tatte mae (in front of the building), and honne (I forget), but it's like, the you that you show people, who has the right opinions clothes and habits, and then theres the real you, which you show to your family and close friends and things like that. I realized that we Americans have that too, just not as extreme, and we switch more easily. Class is good, but easy. We keep going over grammar that we've already learned, but at the same time, my vocab and conversation basics are getting fantastic. I have all these korean friends, so I have to talk to them in Japanese and can't rely on english at all, so it really helps try my hardest to communicate, and figure out what doesn't work. Go to kaiwa no kai. Also, I've become sort of like the book dealer here. No one but me brought books, so I've had to lend like 8 people books so far. They are all like, "Man, I miss reading english" and I'm like here, take this one, its on me. Let's talk more real time about you coming to visit at some point.

Ok, I don't have time to do anymore right now, I have a paper due and a test to study for and now I only have one hour to do that. See, I got the internet yesterday and I spent all my time downloading episodes of Dexter and watching them. Also I went katana shopping yesterday, which ruled because I went with one of my teachers who really knows his shit. Anyway, more later, no haiku. :(




Thursday, November 1, 2007

I come all the way out here pull up my blog, click "post new" and I suddenly have nothing to say.

I`m getting the internet soon (internet company was unable to tell if one of my 9`s was a 9 (it was)) but, to be honest, I kind of like not being connected. I just went on facebook, got the jist of everyone`s halloween (Jimbo`s was the best), but I didn`t feel a longing for life in the states. You guys have your thing right now, and I have mine. Can`t we respect each other`s boundaries? I need space! Halfway across the world just isn`t enough.

A lot of people here are as big of a loner as I am. They keep talking about how they went for a walk and discovered this cool store with this awesome thing that they bought. I haven`t found a cool store (although I haven`t been to Akihabara yet) but I am the only one to find the river, and sit under a bridge and listen to the cars going by overhead. This made me realize that how much I enjoy cities has nothing to do with consumerism or even locations with a lot of people. I guess I feel pretty good about that, although I might need to rethink my "city person" persona.

I can get around here pretty easy now, aside from one or two mishaps. This lady at the grocery asked me if I wanted a straw, and I had no idea what she was talking about. Also, the guy at this internet cafe kept saying something about the price and I just had to eventually go "...hai."

Although, I did go to a movie store and ask the guy if they had Tetsuo the Iron Man. The guy checked in the computer, and literaly said, "it appears that its not there...," in that regretful tone of voice. I love the indirectness sometimes.

I met a guy from sweden who has lived in Japan for 6 years. His accent is perfect. He said that Japan has a lot of pros and cons, and one of the cons is that people won`t tell you what they really think. He thinks that over all, the pros outway the cons. The company that he worked for got shut down by the government beause it was a company that illegally cracked cell phones.

The Koreans in my class are the best people in the world. They are so friendly and full of love and good will that it breaks my heart to think that someday they will die.

So I guess no one wants anything, or, and all together more likely, everyone stopped reading this blog. Fine!

I miss weird stuff, like the smell of movie theaters and also spaghetti. I mean, I miss a lot of food.

I`m doing a homesaty next semester.

So, when I sent my pictures in for my student id, I was bald. Also, in my application, I indcated that I had studied Japanese as a child at the Midwest Buddhist Temple. These facts, along with my interest in "philosophical thinking," were connected together by someone who works in the office, and it made her think, "Oh, is this guy a Buddhist monk?" and she spent some time preparing for that kind of person. How dissapointing to meet the real me!

ha sen no kami
no you na gekko de
tau shimasu